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    梅山古國行:古風尚存 遺存處處

    發布時間: 2019/7/10 0:10:01 被閱覽數: 次 來源: 人民日報海外版
    文字 〖 〗 )

    安化風景

    梅山古國行(行天下)
      眾人探秘“梅山古國”
      在群山莽莽的湘中腹地,有一個叫安化縣的地方。這一地域史稱“梅山”,相傳“舊不與中國通”,為梅山峒蠻所據,首領叫梅王,后人習慣將此地稱為“梅山古國”。
      1072年,王安石遣吏章惇“開梅山”才置縣“安化”,取“歸安德化”之義。近千年來,這里依舊古風尚存,遺存處處,猶顯“梅山古國”之神秘古韻。
      如今,梅山人民為彰顯傳統文化,打造特色旅游名片,成立了梅山文化研究會,梅山文化產業如火如荼。在梅山文化研究會的組織下,我有幸參與了“‘梅山古國’行”探秘之旅。一路所見所聞,嘆為觀止。
      巧奪天工
      因梅山峒蠻生性彪悍,歷代王朝多有征討,欲圖歸一。929年,楚王馬殷派遣王仝討擊梅山,不料因不熟諳地形,在古寨九關十八鎖被梅山峒蠻所襲殺。后人稱掩埋王仝的地方為司徒嶺,當地至今尚有王仝墓。
      九關十八鎖,在安化縣東北邊陲高明鄉驛頭鋪境內,是一條地形復雜、山谷險惡的狹長山谷,是梅山峒軍占據的一個重要軍事要塞,為當時古戰場的左翼。在當地一名熟悉歷史的老者引導下,我們慕名來到了這片當年的古戰場。
      這里地形巧奪天工,與眾不同,高山峻峭,水勢兇猛,山環水繞,神出鬼沒,不愧為兵家用武之地。老者介紹,梅山峒蠻當年就是憑借這道天然屏障,建成九關十八鎖,出奇制勝。其中,峽谷頂端有一個能屯兵達萬的平坦寬敞的山崗,稱為放羊崗,當時號稱安化第一關,也是梅王屯兵的陣地。
      驛頭鋪開闊,九關十八鎖險峻,放羊崗隱秘,游臨至此,我們已感受到了當年兩軍對壘廝殺,鐵馬金戈,一夫當關的戰爭氣息,也為王仝出征遠地、戰死他鄉心生惋惜之情。
      源遠流長
      相傳梅王的大本營和寢宮設在安化縣大福鎮東山村扶王山,是開梅山時梅山峒蠻抵抗官軍戰場的右翼陣地,當地人至今仍叫梅王寨。扶王山半山腰有一個石門關,被稱為梅王寨第一卡,也是一個重要的貿易棧所。扶王山下有一條古道,是安化通長沙的官道,當地出土的一塊清嘉慶年間的民風禁碑,足可證明。
      在當地人的帶領下,我們來到了海拔近800米的扶王山。這里山高路險,柳暗花明,一路古木森森,巉巖飛瀑,如入伏兵暗設之境,扣人心弦。越往上走,路勢愈險,樹蔭更濃,但聞鳥鳴深處,不見人煙。在臨近山頂之處,兀然現出漫山遍野、綠色蔥蘢的闊葉林。原來這是當地人培育的一個中藥材基地,其地萬畝,赫然全是厚樸。
      及至山頂,卻是另外一番景象。首先映入眼簾的是一口面積頗大的堰塘,四周清一色的古樸堅固的土石房屋,一旁尚有峰火臺、點將臺和扶王廟。其次是地勢較高處一棟莊嚴肅穆、土石結構的寬大建筑。人群攢動,熱鬧異常。走近一瞧,才知道這里是梅王寨游客中心。
      原來,當地有個叫寧大作的人,因為熱愛梅山文化,依照史料記載,在原址復建了梅王寨。盡管只是初具雛形,但因梅王寨在當地歷代相傳,一時前來探秘真相的游客倒也不少。據介紹,梅王寨四季景色宜人,冬暖夏涼,附近有千畝櫻花和杜鵑花,每年暮春之際,花團錦簇,煞是迷人。濃霜陡降之時,霧凇垂掛,恍若仙境。
      攀上峰火臺,極目遠眺,全寨盡收眼底,儼然一個峰火傳信的軍事指揮中心。雖然千年前的戰場遺跡已蕩然無存,但依然能感覺梅山人民對當年梅王指揮大軍、叱咤風云的那份崇拜之情。
      梅山文化源遠流長,魅力獨特。在安化境內,自古以來,就有一大批癡迷梅山文化的研究者和愛好者,代代傳承,生生不息。與寧大作開發梅王寨不同,作為一個外地打工致富后回鄉創業的女子,又是安化梅山文化研究會副會長,張青娥在家鄉創建的是一個梅山文化視覺符號齊全的中國梅山文化生態園。
      生態園坐落在安化縣仙溪鎮山口村,目前完善的梅山文化視覺載體有52處,處處古意盎然,惟妙惟肖,一個載體就是一個梅山文化韻味悠長的景點。
      園內傳統屋舍林立,風光旖旎,一步一景,慕名而來的攝影師、畫家及男女游客絡繹不絕。
      大快朵頤
      相傳,梅王無論召集峒主議事,還是豐收喜慶、逢年過節,都會大擺筵席,禮待鄉親。山珍野味,豐盛至極,當地人稱之為梅王宴。千百年來,雖然梅王宴早已成為了一個饞人的傳說,但梅山人民依然念念不忘。
      2017年3月,安化成立梅山文化研究會,此后,為打造傳統飲食文化名片,成立了梅王宴研發課題組,通過田野調查、基礎研究、試制品嘗、建立菜譜,讓人們重新品嘗到了傳說中的梅王宴。如今全縣共有五家梅王宴特許經營店,一家梅王宴形象品牌店。主打菜“馬幫肉”被評為益陽市十大美食之一,成為安化的飲食品牌,吸引各地游客爭相前來大快朵頤。
      我們此行品嘗到了慕名已久的梅王宴。原來梅王宴有梅山盛宴和梅山家宴之分。其中,梅王盛宴共有五道主打菜,其它配菜十一道,還有各類傳統點心六個。每道菜都是本土食材,古法烹飪,味道特純,口感飴人。特別是馬幫肉,因為添有安化黑茶,油而不膩,色味最佳。所有餐具容器和禮儀服飾,都具本土特色,既簡樸,又隆重。品完梅王宴,一種稱心如意的滿足感和自豪感油然而生。
      李定新文/圖

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